For years now, visiting Legzira beach has been a dream of mine.
Named as one of The 40 Best Beaches on Earth by The Huffington Post and recognised by CNN as one of 20 Stunning Cliffside Beaches, I finally convinced two friends to travel the 155 km from our home at The Lunar Surf House just outside of Agadir and spend the night under the stars.
And we managed the whole trip for just €5!
I can’t believe such a budget journey took me so long to make!
One of my favourite websites, Atlas Obscura, states that Legzira Beach is home to two stone arches but in fact the length of beach between Legzira and Sidi Ifni supports five stone arches.
Reaching all five is definitely a mission that needs steady feet and determination! To access all arches you must climb up the rock in between the first two and scramble over the loose pebbles that carpet the small mountains.
I don’t have a fear of heights, but it seems my fear of going down steps also extends to a fear of walking down steep inclines… so the hike is not for the weak legged! But the views are more than worth it!
Luckily I had two very experienced hikers and campers with me (both from Texas!) to encourage my city-dweller legs to take on the hazardous inclines.
Tommi and Renee were so much fun, and as we have all spent a lot of time together in the same town of Tamraght it was great to get away from it all and experience more of Morocco’s beautiful landscape.
But calling Legzira beach a beautiful landscape isn’t doing it any favours. The ocean-carved golden orange arches step from the mountains into the white candy-cotton froth that separates the beach from the Atlantic Ocean.
As the waves swept the shore we were forced to dash quickly under the arches, timing the tide and calculating the distance between our bodies and the sharp rocks above our heads. It was exhilarating, especially as we carried camping gear that we were conscious to hide from any nosy locals we thought might leak our illegal activities to the police!
Camping on the beaches or rocks that make up Legzira isn’t officially legal, and we’d heard rumours that the police were keen to enforce this rule.
The best way to avoid getting hassled for camping out then is to wait until after the sun sets to pitch your tent. Once the sun’s gone down the police aren’t likely to return until 8:00-9:00am the next morning meaning you can sit back and relax.
The best thing about camping in Legzira rather than taking a bed in one of the hostels in the small town? The stars. We spotted so many shooting stars weaving between the sparkling balls of fire… it was seriously something out of the Lion King and was by far the best blanket of stars I have ever slept under!
As a final note, getting to the best camping spot entails a fair bit of a rock climb! But once you’re up there you’ll be out of range of the tide and be able to watch the sun rise over the mountains behind…
When travelling South in Morocco, trains and bus companies such as Supratours and CTM are available but it is far easier to travel by local inter-city taxis and local buses. The best (and cheapest!) way to get to Legzira beach from Agadir is to take a taxi to the town of Tiznit, and from there catch a bus to Legzira.
Agadir to Tiznit by Taxi
- Head to Batwaar – this is a large square in Agadir where all the taxis collect.
- Ask for a collective taxi to Tiznit. In a collective taxi four people sit in the back and two in the front with the driver – so you may have to wait until the driver has a full car. Usually this takes no more than ten minutes.
- In a collective taxi from Agadir to Tiznit, each seat costs just 35 MAD (3.5 EUR) so make sure not to pay more than this. We had one driver offer the three of us a private ride for 800 MAD (80 EUR) which is just ridiculous!
- The ride to Tiznit takes between an hour and two hours depending on traffic. If you want more comfort, you can pay for as many seats as you like, as it can be a bit of a squeeze in the back with four people!
Tiznit to Legzira Beach by Local Bus
- From the taxi square in Tiznit, ask for directions to the bus stop. It is located outside the old medina and is just a five minute walk from the taxi square. Look for the green buses!
- Once there, ask anyone for the bus to Sidi Ifni – this is the one that will stop at Legzira.
- Once on the bus there is usually a woman who sells tickets, and one ticket to Legzira costs 15 MAD (1.5 EUR).
- After just under an hour you will stop in a town called Mirleft – Legzira Beach is just about fifteen minutes after Mirleft and if you’re unsure of where to get off just ask the lady who sold you your ticket.
- Once off the bus, take the steep road going downhill towards the ocean and you will have arrived at the small village of Legzira!
- Taxi from Agadir to Tiznit: 35 MAD (3.5 EUR)
- Bus from Tiznit to Legzira: 15 MAD (1.5 EUR)
- Total = 50 MAD (5 EUR)
- Camping is not strictly allowed on Legzira, so you will need to wait until after sunset (when the police go home) to pitch your tent. It’s also nearly impossible to camp on the beach as the tide comes up so high – we found the best options was to climb up between arches one and two and pitch our tent on the relatively flat portion of land there.
- Be careful when climbing and hiking the rocks around Legzira. As I mention, the small pebbles that make up the ground there are loose and very slippy if you aren’t wearing appropriate footwear! My sandals definitely weren’t appropriate!
- Look out for Mustapha’s restaurant (Chez Mustapha)! He is such a kind man, and his staff were also fantastic. We had lunch there when we arrived, and breakfast the next day and he let us store our bags on the second day for free whilst we explored the stone arches!
Those of you who read my birthday post, 20 Things I Did For The First Time The Year I Turned 25, will have noted that this year I went camping for the first every time… which makes my night in Legzira with Tommi and Renee just the second every time I have wild camped!
The beach is so beautiful and the natural landscape so astoundingly rough and stunning at the same time that I would mae this a must-do on any list of things to do in Morocco!
Get out of the hustle and bustle of the old medinas and souks and experience Morocco!
Lots of love,